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    • 专利摘要:
    The subject of the invention is a cosmetic makeup or care composition for keratin materials comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer and a silicone resin. The subject of the invention is also a process for the makeup or care of keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratinous material of said composition, as well as the use of a MQ silicone resin of trimethylsiloxysilicate type, to improve the resistance to friction. and maintaining a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer.
    公开号:FR3052357A1
    申请号:FR1655494
    申请日:2016-06-14
    公开日:2017-12-15
    发明作者:Veronique Scholler；Chantal Malvezin；Catherine Richard；Stephane Masson；Clermont Gallerande Helene De；Elodie Champredonde
    申请人:Chanel Parfums Beaute SAS；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    Cosmetic composition comprising at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer and a silicone resin.
    The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic makeup or care composition for keratin materials comprising at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer and a silicone resin. The subject of the invention is also a process for making up or caring for keratin materials of human beings, comprising the application to the skin of said composition.
    Makeup or care compositions are commonly used to provide an aesthetic appearance when applied to the skin and lips, this effect to persist over time. In particular, they must withstand the various external factors that may modify their aesthetic effect, such as sweat or saliva. In particular, cosmetic products, and especially lipsticks, must not migrate or spin in wrinkles or fine lines, or transfer to a fabric. They must also be pleasant to apply and their deposit must provide a feeling of comfort to the user, while maintaining satisfactory aesthetic properties.
    It is known, in order to limit the color transfer of the cosmetic compositions and to improve the holding of their hue, to incorporate into the formulas so-called film-forming polymers. As examples of film-forming polymers conventionally used, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or Dimethicone) such as those described in documents US 6780402 (L'Oreal), US5318775 (Mary Kay Cosmetics), US4699780. (Estee Lauder); and US4578266 (Revlon). More recently, the use of silicone-polyurethane polymers has developed.
    However, these film-forming polymers do not always make it possible to obtain good results in terms of holding the color of the makeup, and resistance to friction.
    It would therefore be desirable to have cosmetic compositions having good makeup holding properties, especially color, while having improved properties of resistance to friction.
    The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a make-up or skincare composition for keratinous substances, in particular for lips, which has excellent properties for holding makeup, and in particular for its color, and for resistance to friction. The object of the invention is therefore, according to a first aspect, a cosmetic makeup or care composition for keratin materials comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer and a silicone resin. The subject of the invention is also, according to a second aspect, a process for making up or caring for keratin materials, in particular for the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of such a composition.
    Finally, the subject of the invention is, according to a third aspect, the use of a particular silicone resin, for improving the resistance to friction and the holding of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polymer. silicone-polyurethane.
    It is indeed the merit of the applicant to have observed that it was possible to formulate compositions having improved properties of resistance and resistance to friction by associating a particular silicone-polyurethane polymer with a silicone resin, said silicone polymer polyurethane can be used in a sufficiently low content to not alter the friction resistance of the composition.
    Silicone-polyurethane polymer
    The composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer. In the broadest sense of the invention, the choice of the polyurethane silicone polymer should not be particularly limited and may relate to any polymer comprising organosiloxane units and urethane linkages. According to one embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product of a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, preferably comprising two or more hydroxyl groups, with a diisocyanate compound. The polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups typically corresponds to the structure of formula I:
    In which R is independently selected at each occurrence from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, and optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular from an alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl group, aryl-alkyl or alkyl-aryl substituted or unsubstituted / preferably, R is selected from linear or cyclic or branched and optionally substituted C 1-6 alkyl or alkenyl, including, without limitation, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, amyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl, vinyl, allyl or Cl-8 aryl, aryl-alkyl or alkyl-aryl, including but not limited to phenyl, benzyl, tolyl, xylyl; wherein each of the above R groups may be optionally substituted with one or more heteroatoms, including oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus and halogen, especially fluorine, as exemplified by fluoroalkyl (perfluoroalkyl) groups such as mono-, di- and trifluoromethyl, perfluorophenyl, and C1-6 substituted alkylamino groups, including those having the formula - (CH2) i-6-NR '^ 2 and - (CH2) ie Wherein R 'is typically hydrogen, but may also be methyl, ethyl, propyl, and the like; polyether groups, including, but not limited to, polyethylene oxide groups having the formula - (CH 2 CH 2 O) propylene oxide groups having the formula - (CH (CH 3) CH 2 O) and combinations thereof this ; and amine oxide, phosphate, hydroxyl, ester and / or carboxylate functions, or the like; or wherein R can comprise an additional group - L-OH; wherein L represents either a bond or a linking group; preferably L is a linking group selected from divalent hydrocarbons having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, including a divalent alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl-aryl or aryl-alkyl group, such as, for example, an alkyl group having Cl-10, including, but not limited to, the divalent groups of the formula - (CH2) i-io ~ / preferably - (CH2) i-6-, and more preferably, L is -CH2CH2 CH2-; and where n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50. Preferably, R represents at least one or more occurrences of a group. methyl, more preferably, R represents a methyl group at all or almost all occurrences, which means that R represents a methyl group with more than 90% of the occurrences, in particular with more than 95% of the occurrences, even with more than 98% of occurrences.
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups comprises a polymethylsiloxane corresponding for example to the structure of formula la:
    wherein L and n are as previously defined.
    According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups comprises a polymethylsiloxane corresponding for example to the structure of formula Ib:
    Ib where n is as defined above.
    The diisocyanate may especially correspond to the formula ## STR2 ## where is a divalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms, and in particular R may be selected from an optionally substituted linear, cyclic or branched cyclic alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl aryl or arylalkyl group, including, but not limited to: i. a group of formula:
    ii. a group of formula:
    iii. a group of formula:
    iv. a group of formula:
    and; V. a group of formula:
    and combinations thereof.
    Suitable diisocyanates within the scope of the invention include, but are not limited to, toluene diisocyanate; methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, including 2,2'-MOI, 2,4'-MDI and 4,4'-MDI; 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate; isophorone diisocyanate; methylene diisocyanate dicyclohexyl; xylene diisocyanate; cyclohexane diisocyanate; 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate; p-phenylene diisocyanate; m-phenylene diisocyanate; 4,4'-isopropylidene dicyclohexyl isocyanate; and their equivalents.
    In a preferred embodiment, the diisocyanate is selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof. In one embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate. In another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of isophorone diisocyanate. In yet another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of dicyclohexyl methylene diisocyanate, this embodiment being particularly preferred.
    According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention comprises recurring units derived from the polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups and diisocyanate in the form of an alternating copolymer AB, where the unit A has the structure of formula II:
    In which R, L and n are defined as above in relation to formula I, la, Ib and le, and wherein unit B has the structure of formula III:
    ΙΠ where -est as defined above, and wherein the units A and B are arranged in a linear configuration, branched or cyclic, and preferably linear.
    The polymer may also comprise branching or grafting points in the polyorganosiloxane wherein one or more R groups in formula I or II is a group such that:
    wherein R is as defined for formula I, and R * may represent a group -L-O- further coupling the side chain of a unit B of formula III, which in turn may be coupled further to unit A of formula II, and so on, or else R * may represent -L-OH, a group R as defined above, or a terminal group. When the polyorganosiloxane has branching or grafting points of this type, they may be present in the form of T or Q type grafts, where T indicates that only one R group on the Si atom is a polyorganosiloxane chain, as indicated in FIG. above and Q indicates that the two R groups are polyorganosiloxanes. These types of polyorganosiloxane compounds are referred to as silicone-polyurethane polymer copolymer and T-resin or Q-resin, branched or grafted.
    The silicone-polyurethane polymers can also be prepared from functionalized isocyanate prepolymers. For example, an isocyanate prepolymer may be a difunctional or multi-functional polyorganosiloxane isocyanate, such as the polyorganosiloxane diisocyanate shown below in Formula V:
    In which R, R 1 and L are as defined above, and wherein x is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably 10 and The prepolymer may also be multifunctional by introducing additional isocyanate groups carrying one or more R groups. The functionalized isocyanate prepolymer is reacted with a hydroxyl functionalized polyorganosiloxane to obtain a compound of formula I or a multifunctional analogue of it. The prepolymer according to Formula V generally has a molecular weight ranging from 4000 to about 15,000 brass. The prepolymer according to formulas I, Ia and Ib typically has a molecular weight ranging from 250 to about 15,000 brass.
    In one embodiment of the invention, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is free or substantially free of polyalkylene glycol subunits, especially polyethylene glycol (PEG) or polypropylene glycol (PPG). By "essentially free of" is meant that the polymer comprises less than about 1% by weight, preferably less than about 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than about 0.1% by weight of sub polyalkylene glycol units.
    In a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is a linear polymer comprising the reaction product of formula Ib with a diisocyanate selected from the group consisting of diisocyanate of 1, 6-hexamethylene, dicyclohexyl methylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.
    A silicone-polyurethane polymer is for example available from Siltech Corporation in the form of a premix in isododecane, under the commercial reference SILMER UR 5050 or UR 100100.
    The composition according to the invention comprises in particular the silicone-polyurethane polymer in a content ranging from 8 to 16% by weight of active polymer material, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 15% by weight.
    It is indeed the merit of the applicant to have observed that compositions comprising more than 16% of active silicone-polyurethane material had a lower resistance to friction and resistance. Silicone resin
    The composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone resin.
    In general, the term "resin" means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional. Thus, within the meaning of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.
    The nomenclature of silicone resins (also called siloxane resins or silicone resins) is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different monomeric siloxane units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.
    The letter "M" represents the monofunctional unit of formula RlR2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
    The letter "D" means a Difunctional unit R1R2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms.
    The letter "T" represents a trifunctional unit of formula RlSi03 / 2.
    Such resins are described for example US Patent Applications 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302, 685 and US 4,935,484.
    In the units M, D and T defined above, R 1, namely R 1 and R 2, represents a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or else a hydroxyl group.
    Finally, the letter "Q" means a tetrafunctional unit Si04 / 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.
    Various silicone resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the nature and the number of the radical R, the length of the polymer chain , the degree of branching and the size of the hanging chains.
    The silicone resins used in the compositions according to the invention may for example be silicone resins of MQ type, T type or MQT type. According to a preferred embodiment, the resins MQ, T or MQT are in solid form, in particular in powder form.
    According to a preferred embodiment, an MQ resin is used. By way of example of silicone resins of the MQ type, mention may be made of the alkylsiloxysilicates of formula [(RI) 3 Si / 2] X (SiO 4/2) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group RI represents a radical as defined above, and preferably is an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group. MQ resins trimethylsiloxysilicate type are thus preferred.
    Examples of solid silicone resins of MQ type trimethylsiloxysilicate type include those sold under the reference SRIOOO by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker, under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin- Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by Dow Corning.
    As silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by General Electric). The preparation of such resins is described in particular in US5817302. By way of example of T-type silicone resins, mention may be made of polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO 3/2) x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the R group is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes may further comprise Si-OH end groups. Preferably, it is possible to use the polymethylsilsesquioxane resins in which R represents a methyl group, for instance those marketed: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising CH3SiO3 / 2 repeating units (units T), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH 3) 2 SiO 2/2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000 g / mol, or - by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH3SiO3 / 2 and have Si-OH end groups (silanol), under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl units D and have terminal Si-OH groups or alternatively under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups. As a resin comprising MQT units, those known from US 5 110 890 are particularly known. A preferred form of MQT-type resins are MQT-propyl resins (also called MQTPr). Such resins that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are in particular those described and prepared in application WO 2005/075542, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference. The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the following units: (i) (R13SiO1 / 2) a (ii) (R22SiOi / 2) b (iii) (R3SiOi / 2) c and (iv) (SiO4 / 2) d with R1, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or else a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms; carbon or a phenyl group, a being between 0.05 and 0.5, b being between zero and 0.3, c being greater than zero, d being between 0.05 and 0.6, a + b + c + d = 1, and a, b, c and d being mole fractions, provided that more than 40 mol% of the R 3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.
    The siloxane resins which can be used according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of (R13SiOi / 2) a and (SiO4 / 2) d, R1 units. representing an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, a and d being greater than zero, the ratio a / d being between 0.5 and 1.5; and B) a propyl resin T comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R3SiOi / 2) c, R3 representing an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or a group amino, c being greater than zero, with the proviso that at least 40 mol% of the R 3 groups are propyl groups, in which the mass ratio A / B is between 95: 5 and 15:85, preferably the mass ratio A / B is 30:70.
    The composition according to the invention comprises in particular a silicone resin, preferably MQ, in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight of resin, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight.
    Physiologically acceptable medium
    The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable and preferably cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has no deleterious side effects and in particular which does not produce redness, heating, tugging or unacceptable tingling for a user of cosmetics.
    Oils
    The physiologically acceptable medium may in particular comprise at least one oil.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and which, when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight in water at 25 ° C. C is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to less than 10% by weight, based on the weight of oil introduced into the water. The oil can be volatile or nonvolatile, polar or apolar. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the oils constituting the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition according to the invention so that they are compatible with the silicone acrylate polymer and the silicone resin it contains.
    As oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, there may be mentioned hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.
    Among these oils, it is preferred that the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil.
    By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing only hydrogen and carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon oil may be volatile, and in particular have a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 102 ° C., preferably ranging from 40 ° C. to 55 ° C., and preferably ranging from 40 ° C. to 50 ° C. The hydrocarbon-based volatile oil may especially be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular: C 8 -C 18 branched alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) in C 8 -C 18 Co., isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls; linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and ntetradecane; (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (Cil) and n-tridecane ( C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis and mixtures thereof. The volatile hydrocarbon oil is preferably isododecane. The hydrocarbon oil may be nonvolatile hydrocarbon, preferably polar.
    In particular, said non-volatile oil may be an ester oil, in particular having between 18 and 70 carbon atoms. By way of examples, mention may be made of mono-, di- or tri-esters.
    The ester oils may in particular be hydroxylated. The non-volatile ester oil may preferably be chosen from: the monoesters comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular the monoesters of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 4 at 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that RI + R2 is 18, such as for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononyl ester , C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearate of isostearyl, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, palmitate 2-ethylhexyl, 2-hex laurate γ-decyl, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate. Preferably, they are esters of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms. carbon, R1 and R2 being such that R1 + R2 is 18. Preferably, the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total. As preferred monoesters, there isonononyl isonononate. diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. It is especially possible to use diesters of dicarboxylic acid and monoalcohols, such as diisostearyl malate. Alternatively, the diesters may be glycol and monocarboxylic acid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate (such as the compound sold under the commercial reference DERMOL DGDIS by Alzo), the triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as tri tries of carboxylic triacid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and mono carboxylic acids such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate ; tetraesters, in particular having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, such as the tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl of tetraisostearate, tetraisononate of pentaerythrityl, glyceryl 2-tri-tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. diol dimer and mono- or dicarboxylic acid esters and polyesters, such as diol dimer and fatty acid esters and diol dimer and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, in particular obtainable from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, especially of C8 to C34, in particular of C12 to C22, in particular of C16 to C20, and more particularly to C18, such as the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dimers dilinoleic diols, for example such as those marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7® - the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers, such as for example that sold under the name ANTARON V- 216 (also called Ganex V216) by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g / mol), - vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as triglycerides of fatty acids (liquid at room temperature), especially fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil, in particular saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, triheptanoate of glyceryl, glycerin trioctanoate, C18-36 acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUE TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, lime, Ixenia oil, pracaxi oil; - and their mixtures.
    The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The silicone oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
    Non-volatile silicone oils that may especially be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes containing at least 8 silicon atoms, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes whose alkyl chain contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and oils identified by the INCI name phenyl trimethicone.
    As volatile silicone oil, there may be mentioned in particular certain dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane and octamethyl. trisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, the compounds identified by the INCI names methyl trimethicone and caprylyl methicone and mixtures thereof.
    Examples of vegetable oils include wheat germ, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame, maize, apricot, castor oil, shea butter, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, pumpkin oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil , millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose or camellia.
    The term "fluorinated oils" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluorodimethylcyclohexane, perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, perfluorodecalin, and mixtures thereof, without this list being limiting.
    The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 40 to 80% by weight of oil, especially hydrocarbon, in particular from 45 to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 50 to 70% by weight of oil.
    Lipophilic wax and gelling agent
    The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one wax and / or at least one lipophilic gelling agent.
    By "wax" is meant a fatty substance having a melting temperature above 30 ° C. and generally below 100 ° C., which is liquid under the conditions of preparation of the composition and has an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. . Examples of waxes include plant, mineral or synthetic waxes, the latter may advantageously be hydrocarbon or silicone waxes. Mention may thus be made of carnauba, candelilla, rice, bee (Cera alba), optionally functionalized polyethylene, and paraffin waxes, as well as ozokerite, microcrystalline waxes and linear C14-C22 fatty alcohols. and triesters of C8-C20 acids and glycerine such as glycerin tribehenate, and mixtures thereof, without this list being limiting. There may also be mentioned acetylated glycol stearate marketed by VEVY under the trade name CETACENE®.
    According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one apolar wax. Apolar wax is defined as a hydrocarbon or silicone apolar wax.
    According to one embodiment, the apolar hydrocarbon wax contains at least 95% by weight of chemical compounds consisting of carbon and hydrogen. These chemical compounds are advantageously chosen from saturated, linear or branched alkanes. In particular, the apolar wax may be chosen from linear hydrocarbon waxes. Linear hydrocarbon waxes include polymers and copolymers of ethylene, linear paraffin waxes and Fischer Tropsch waxes.
    The apolar wax may alternatively be a polyoxyalkylenated silicone wax, that is to say a silicone comprising at least one oxyalkylene group of the type (-CXH2XO) a in which x may vary from 2 to 6 and a is greater than or equal to to 2.
    According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyethylene wax.
    The composition according to the invention may in particular comprise a wax in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Examples of lipophilic gelling agents are in particular fillers making it possible to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.
    "Charge" is understood to mean colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, solid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition, irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).
    In particular, the filler may be chosen from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, hectorite type clay (bentone), fumed silica particles, optionally hydrophilic or hydrophobic treated, polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly- (3-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap® from Dow Corning), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from TOSHIBA, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydro carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, acid-derived metallic soaps organic carboxylic compounds having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the filler is selected from silica, kaolin, bentone, starch, lauroyl-lysine. the fumed silica particles, optionally hydrophilic or hydrophobic treated, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent is preferably bentone.
    The composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more lipophilic gelling agents in a content ranging from 0.1 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.2 to 10% by weight relative to relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Coloring matters
    The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff which may be chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, liposoluble dyes, lacquers (organic pigment) and mixtures thereof.
    By pigments, it is necessary to include white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.
    As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and the like. chromium hydrate.
    Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D type pigments & C, lacquers based on carmine cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or the diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO -A- 96/08537.
    The pigments used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be surface-treated with a hydrophobic treatment agent. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as meticones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes and alkyl alkoxy silanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids ; N-acyl amino acids or their salts / lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
    According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic treatment agent is chosen from alkyl alkoxy silanes, in particular octyl triethoxy silane (OTS).
    By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.
    By "dyes" are meant generally organic compounds soluble in fatty substances such as oils.
    Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow.
    The dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, especially from 1 to 10% by weight, and in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
    assets
    The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more active agents, in particular chosen from moisturizing agents (especially vitamin E), healing agents and / or anti-aging agents, skin and / or lips, and in particular lips.
    According to this embodiment, the invention also relates to a method of care and / or makeup (non-therapeutic) of the skin and / or lips, and in particular of the lips comprising the application of a composition according to the invention on the skin and or lips.
    The deposit made with a composition according to the invention having a good level of resistance, makes it possible to ensure the persistence of the active ingredient on the skin and / or the lips and thus to improve the effectiveness of the care (moisturizing, healing effect and / or age) of the skin and / or the lips.
    The composition used according to the invention may further contain humectants such as hyaluronic acid and its salts and / or polyols such as glycerine.
    Additional usual cosmetic ingredients
    The composition according to the invention may also comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient which may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active agents, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-free radical agents, deodorant agents, sequestering agents, and mixtures thereof.
    In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sunscreen.
    galenic
    The composition according to the invention can be advantageously used for the care or makeup of the skin or lips, and in particular the makeup of the lips.
    In particular, the product of the invention can be in the form of a base layer in the context of a double-layer makeup product of the skin or lips.
    The invention also relates to a process for the makeup or care of keratinous substances, in particular the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of at least one composition as defined above.
    According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises: - the application on said keratin materials of at least one composition as defined above, as a base composition (also called "base coat"), and the application on said base composition of a coating composition (also called "top coat").
    The top coat coating composition is chosen in particular by those skilled in the art so as to be incompatible with the base composition in order to prevent the migration of the constituents of each composition towards the other, which would alter the behavior and the intensity of the color conferred by the base composition according to the invention, and would reduce the brightness conferred by the top coat coating composition.
    The top coat composition preferably comprises at least one nonvolatile, preferably glossy, oil which is incompatible with the base composition. The non-volatile oil may especially be a non-volatile silicone oil.
    The coating composition ("top coat") makes it possible to impart shine to the base composition, and to reduce or even eliminate the sticky feeling provided by the base composition when it is applied alone.
    Another subject of the invention is, according to another aspect, the use of a particular silicone resin, for improving the resistance to friction and the resistance of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polymer silicone-polyurethane.
    The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustration of the present invention. Percentages are percentages by weight.
    Examples
    Two liquid formulas for the lips having the following compositions were prepared:
    The formulas were applied (3 successive layers) on the lips of a panel of 9 people.
    The properties of the compositions were evaluated visually by an experienced makeup artist on the following criteria: - maintaining the color of the compositions after a meal (pasta in sauce), - resistance to rubbing (wiping the compositions with a tissue).
    The makeup artist thus observed that the composition 1 according to the invention left more residual deposit on the lips after wiping with a tissue than the comparative composition 2.
    In addition, makeup removing composition 1 was much more difficult than that of the comparative composition 2 because the composition 1 according to the invention adhered more to the mucosa (better makeup performance).
    In another test, the formulas of compositions 1 and 2 were again applied (3 successive layers) to the lips of a panel of 9 people, then, this time, covered with a bright colorless "top coat" having the following formula:
    The makeup result was evaluated visually by an experienced makeup artist on the following criteria: - hue, - homogeneity, - sharpness of the contours, - shine.
    The makeup artist thus observed that the composition 1 according to the invention made it possible to obtain a more intense shade (especially during the day), homogeneous during application and spinning less (sharper outlines) than the comparative composition 2.
    A test of the compositions after a meal (pasta in sauce) also allowed to show a better hold of the hue obtained with the composition 1 according to the invention compared to the comparative composition 2.
    权利要求:
    Claims (19)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    1. Cosmetic makeup or care composition of keratin materials comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer and a silicone resin.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product of a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups with a diisocyanate compound.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups corresponds to the structure of formula Ib:

    in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Composition according to any one of claims 2 or 3, characterized in that the diisocyanate compound has the formula O = C = NR ^ -N = C = O, where is a divalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 20 atoms of carbon, and in particular R 1 is a group of formula:


    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the diisocyanate compound is selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone-polyurethane polymer is present in a content ranging from 8 to 16% by weight of active polymer material, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 15% by weight.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone resin is a type MQ, type T or MQT type resin, preferably in solid form, especially in powder form.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone resin is a resin of MQ alkylsiloxysilicates type of formula [(RI) 3Sii / 2] X (Si04 / 2) y in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and the group RI represents a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the MQ resin trimethylsiloxysilicate type.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone resin, preferably MQ, is present in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight of resin, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the physiologically acceptable medium comprises at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and is preferably isododecane.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one wax and / or at least one lipophilic gelling agent.
    [14" id="c-fr-0014]
    14. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the wax is a polyethylene wax and the lipophilic gelling agent is a clay.
    [15" id="c-fr-0015]
    15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one dyestuff chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, fat-soluble dyes, lacquers (organic pigment) and mixtures thereof.
    [16" id="c-fr-0016]
    16. A process for making up or caring for keratin materials comprising applying to said keratinous materials at least one composition according to one of claims 1 to 15.
    [17" id="c-fr-0017]
    17. A process for making up or caring for keratin materials, comprising: applying to said keratinous materials at least one composition according to one of claims 1 to 15, as a base composition, and the application on said basic composition of a coating composition.
    [18" id="c-fr-0018]
    18. The method of claim 17, characterized in that the coating composition is incompatible with the base composition.
    [19" id="c-fr-0019]
    19. Use of a MQ silicone resin trimethylsiloxysilicate type, to improve the resistance to friction and the holding of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer.
    类似技术:
    公开号 | 公开日 | 专利标题
    EP2231109B1|2013-03-20|Cosmetic method using a composition comprising a siloxane resin and a volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent
    FR2939033A1|2010-06-04|COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE OF KERATINIC MATERIALS, AND METHOD FOR MAKE-UP
    FR2873030A1|2006-01-20|COSMETIC BICOUCHE PRODUCT COMPRISING A SILICONE POLYMER
    FR2974367A1|2012-10-26|COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING CARBOSILOXANE DENDRIMER-BASED POLYMER AND HIGH MONO-ALCOHOL QUANTITY
    EP3576713B1|2020-12-09|Solid water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion
    EP1632269A1|2006-03-08|Cosmetic composition comprising a defined polymeric silicon and a surfactant
    FR2873033A1|2006-01-20|Anhydrous cosmetic composition, useful in skin care, lip care and make-up composition, comprises liquid fatty phase, gelling agent for the liquid fatty phase, and silicone polymer
    FR3052357B1|2019-08-30|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE SILICONE-POLYURETHANE POLYMER AND A SILICONE RESIN
    EP3139900A1|2017-03-15|Preparation of a pulverulent/pasty composition comprising a silicone elastomer gel, solid particles and a binding phase and lip treatment process
    FR2873034A1|2006-01-20|Cosmetic composition for making up or caring for keratin materials e.g. skin and nail comprises at least one hydrocarbon ester containing less than 40 carbon atoms and at least one silicone polymer, and volatile oil
    FR2988293A1|2013-09-27|Cosmetic composition, useful for making up and caring skin, comprises non-volatile ester, and emulsifying silicone elastomer, where composition is in form of water-in-oil emulsion including aqueous phase dispersed in fatty phase
    FR3069439A1|2019-02-01|WATER EMULSION IN OIL COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE NON-VOLATILE OIL, AT LEAST ONE SILICONE RESIN AND AT LEAST ONE POLYURETHANE GROUP FILM POLYMER
    EP1795233A2|2007-06-13|Cosmetic composition comprising an ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and polyol and a silicon containing surfactant
    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    FR3052357B1|2019-08-30|
    EP3468671A1|2019-04-17|
    JP2019518042A|2019-06-27|
    KR20190017802A|2019-02-20|
    CN109310886A|2019-02-05|
    KR102317469B1|2021-10-25|
    US20190133918A1|2019-05-09|
    WO2017216475A1|2017-12-21|
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    法律状态:
    2017-06-28| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2017-12-15| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20171215 |
    2018-06-22| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2019-06-25| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2020-06-22| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2021-04-22| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1655494|2016-06-14|
    FR1655494A|FR3052357B1|2016-06-14|2016-06-14|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE SILICONE-POLYURETHANE POLYMER AND A SILICONE RESIN|FR1655494A| FR3052357B1|2016-06-14|2016-06-14|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE SILICONE-POLYURETHANE POLYMER AND A SILICONE RESIN|
    US16/309,711| US20190133918A1|2016-06-14|2017-06-13|Cosmetic composition comprising at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer and a silicone resin|
    CN201780036301.1A| CN109310886A|2016-06-14|2017-06-13|Cosmetic composition comprising at least one polysilicone-polyurethanes polymer and polyorganosiloxane resin|
    KR1020187036464A| KR102317469B1|2016-06-14|2017-06-13|Cosmetic composition comprising at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer and a silicone resin|
    PCT/FR2017/051522| WO2017216475A1|2016-06-14|2017-06-13|Cosmetic composition comprising at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer and a silicone resin|
    EP17745375.0A| EP3468671A1|2016-06-14|2017-06-13|Cosmetic composition comprising at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer and a silicone resin|
    JP2018565356A| JP2019518042A|2016-06-14|2017-06-13|Cosmetic composition comprising at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer and silicone resin|
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